Piles of brick continue to grow daily but are kept away, with a fence, from the curious hands of tourists, children and dogs that find their way into the Marx Engels Forum. The fence holds no clues about what is occurring, the sign hinged on the fence is a generic contractor advertisement but a few posters scattered along the fencing of the southern edge of the park, emblazoned with the BVG logo, hint at something transit-related. Craters of earth expose the historic heart of Berlin, accompanied by the rough volumes of stones tossed atop one another, standing as witnesses to the former sites of the GDR’s monuments to Marx and Engels. Ludwig Engelhardt knitted Marx and Engels together from wireframe, then added their flesh and bone through slab of clay after slab of clay only to finish by pouring them as bronze. Sibylle Bergemann, who just passed away in the Fall of 2010, documented Engelhardt in the 1980s when he created the sculpture of Marx and Engels. Her photos show images of both figures pinned throughout Engelhardt’s studio, his guides in crafting the two philosophers. Recorded in black and white, the initial forms are not much different from the piles of stone I see in the MEF, nearly shapeless pieces of earth put one atop the other, to later be placed in the center of historic Berlin.
By now Berlin has many hearts and the districts that are scattered throughout the city lack any simple cohesion. It has been a rough hundred years to say the least for this city and like anything else the torrential storms that have left their scars on its surface have also maimed what was once a cohesive entity. These craters are nothing but scrapes after what this portion of the city has already witnessed, including the marches of Hitler, the destruction of World War II, and the parades of the GDR. The visitors that pass through realize something is changing, but there are no direct or obvious signs displaying why demolition or construction is occurring, or even if it is either or a combination of both. What was once here or what might come to be is completely unclear.
The television tower at Alexanderplatz rises above the forum and the tourists that have come to take pictures here find it absurd that they cannot take just the right photo to commemorate their trip to the big city by standing in the center, the fence prevents this. But they are resourceful and just as the groups of buses that line Spandauer Straße prevent direct circulation into the park, the fence does also funnel visitors around the perimeter of the forum. It’s difficult to notice at first but Marx and Engels are still here, they’ve just been slightly relocated from the center of the city, and the former showcase of East German identity, off to the Northwestern tip of the forum, still gazing East but now nearer Unter den Linden and slightly askew from their formerly central position in the city and state ideology.
This park, it might be difficult to even call it that, is going through a change. Like much of Berlin it is a fairly recent development that is already being reconfigured. It has been here and recognized as a park since (1987) and it has seen the fall of a government, the stitching together of a city and the production of a new German nationalism. It may not be noted as having witnessed all of this, and often this is because the park is almost forgotten. Its chestnut trees distinguish it from Nikolaiviertel in the South, the Spree in the West and Alexanderplatz to the East. The North reflects Berlin’s growing commercial success as a European capital with a new Radisson hotel, Fox headquarters and arcades to pass through while visiting the historic city center. I watch as children run through timed spouts of water in these arcades, waiting with their parents to be seated at the commercial restaurants that are tucked into the cavities of the block that combines hotel with news agency, with tourist shops and aquarium. The entire block to the North of this park is a consumer extravaganza, containing traditional Berlin souvenir items like crossing guard keychains and stuffed bears, upscale restaurants, an Einstein’s coffeeshop and an aquarium. The basement of the building is nothing like its glossy exterior that is coated in glass and reflects the lights of traffic as it flows by. Rather, as I take the elevator into the underground with my boss to pick up a competition model of the city center, I’m introduced to the mechanics of the aquarium. As my boss pieces together the Styrofoam television tower and bags the rest of downtown Berlin so we can carry it to the planning senate’s exhibition, one of the aquarium workers offers to show me Berlin’s last seahorse, whose lover has just died. The block contains too many things all at once and this very quality of difference and density contrasts strongly against the patch of grass situated just South and whose main attractions are the leftovers of a failed dream or maybe the end of a nightmare for some. The dream was Communism and the park is a direct embodiment and celebration of this, while at the same time the commemoration of a nightmare for others, its perpetuation in Berlin’s center signifies both.
But it’s not only the Northern block that I notice when visiting the MEF, Museuminsel also easily overshadows this park, and until fairly recently the prior Palace of the Republic functioned as a containing condition for the park, reinforcing its presence as absence by bordering it on its Western side, across the River Spree. But the park is not really a void so much and it is only an absence in its lack of built structure, besides the combined public toilet and convenience store on the Southeastern corner. This park is one urban form of German Socialism, its history describes an all-too-familiar cultural fantasy of Cold War tensions whereby grand dreams become shriveled realizations and the hopes of a people are barely cobbled together. But the park contains more than just this and the groups of cyclists that assemble among its ringed sidewalks and the tourists that pass through during their brief glimpses of Berlin might realize this. The Berliners that follow behind their dogs, who presumably used to urinate on Marx and Engels, might not envision the site as really being this depressing nor this important. Instead, these individuals might have barely formed an opinion, most of them never even stop here to look around. There is really no reason to do so currently as the park is undergoing construction and Marx, Engels and the other sculptures that used to stand guard in the center of the park have been huddled together inside another fence. Instead, the park is a site for individuals to pass through. The Berliner Dome is just to the Northwest, literally across the street. Nikolaiviertel is to the South and holds a variety of shops and cafés that celebrate and craft traditional German identity through cuckoo clocks, bears, dolls, and German handiwork. Taverns, traditional restaurants and historic buildings of Berlin’s founding, such as Nikolaikirche, Berlin’s oldest church, make the district and match the northern block in quality of difference and density.
The relocation of Marx and Engels is a recent occurrence that took place this past September in anticipation of the extension of the U-Bahn to the Berlin townhall. Now the park is disassembled while an underground stop is added on its Southeastern perimeter, encouraging the flow of individuals through the historic city center along the East/West axis. The construction lines the Southern edge of the park and pedestrians along Spandauer Straße find the pervasive orange cones blocking their jaywalk into the plaza surrounding the King Neptune fountain. During the warmer months of the year this area surrounding Neptune and his maritime companions, and leading up to the television tower holds beds of red roses that filters the throngs of visitors as they move east or find an available bench. The benches that line the Northern and Southern edges of the plaza are filled in the warm months, a cacophony of languages suffocating the water trickling across Neptune’s companions and adding another cloud of speech over the already marked benches which are covered in graffiti tags. As I walk past those sitting in the plaza, a general visitor is entirely too difficult to discern as the young and old blend together, tourist and resident remaining nearly imperceptible. The elderly rest and watch as walkers pass through with indistinct trajectories, though most likely somewhere in the historic downtown, and families take pictures next to King Neptune, trying to hold back their children from diving into the gargantuan fountain. Mostly they are successful as when I’ve passed through the plaza there have never been children directly in the water, instead they tuck themselves into the laps of the figures surrounding Neptune or attempt to climb Neptune as their parents rush them to pose for a photo, the line of likeminded people building behind them and pressuring their candid moment’s appearance. As the tourists generally command the territory around the fountain and beds of roses, punks on their bicycles, skateboards and rollerblades command the stairwells leading into the television tower. Their hair lacks any specific order or style, they’re not the fashion victims of Hackescher Markt nor Prenzlauer Berg and as I pass through I notice their risky movements as they jet through the crowds of people, pushing to see how close they can get to one another or the pedestrians while weaving in and out of the crowds. The television tower itself propels into the sky and on clear days the very tip can be seen puncturing a cloud. But when the grey skies of Berlin gather in the Fall and Winter months the television tower begins to disappear after ten or fifteen stories, becoming lost in the fog and mist, only revealing itself intermittently as a faint red glow pulses from the sky.